Michel Roux, transformer with his brother of the British restaurant scene, died on March 11th, aged 78
大厨米歇尔·鲁克斯于3月11日去世，享年78岁。他和哥哥艾伯特是英国餐厅的变革者。
The sight was so awful that Michel Roux, then only in his 20s and new to London, quickly turned his face away. Through the window of the Lyons Corner House near Marble Arch he could see people eating British peas. The peas were fluorescent, big as quails' eggs. And there was worse: on each side-plate a piece of sliced bread, limp as a handkerchief and bleached frighteningly white.
当时的情景是如此糟糕，以至于刚到伦敦不久、才20多岁的米歇尔·鲁克斯很快就把脸转开了。透过大理石拱门附近里昂角屋餐厅的窗户，他看到人们在吃英国豌豆。豌豆表面非常亮，像鹌鹑蛋那么大。还有更糟的：每个小盘里都有一片切片面包，像手帕一样软塌塌的，白得吓人。

No one could make an omelette soufflé Rothschild (succulent with apricots, perfumed with Cointreau, his tour de force when he was Cécile de Rothschild's chef for nearly six years), the way he could. (Albert was more of a sauce man.) They bickered all the time, doing a tv cookery show later in which they flirted with filleting each other, but they made a good team; so in 1967 they bought their 90-seater restaurant in Lower Sloane Street and shook up London together.

没有人能像米歇尔那样做洛希尔蛋奶酥(搭配着多汁的杏子，散发着君度甜酒的香味，这是他在塞西尔·德·洛希尔餐厅做厨师时的拿手好戏)。(艾伯特则更喜欢用酱。)他们总是争吵，后来在一个电视烹饪节目中，他们互相挑逗着切鱼片，但是他们是一个很好的团队；于是，1967年，他们买下了位于下斯隆街的90座餐厅，并一起震撼了伦敦。
What they offered was classic French-restaurant cuisine, short menus cooked fresh à la minute; not, as was the custom even in high-class British restaurants then, dishes reheated from frozen or cooked far in advance. Every ingredient was fresh too, often sourced from French suppliers whom they knew as friends. (Later, they ordered in almost everything from Rungis market in Paris.)
他们提供的是经典的法式餐厅美食，菜单简短，新鲜烹饪；这就是不同之处，按照当时的习俗，即使是在高级的英国餐馆里，菜肴也是加热冷冻食物，或者提前很久就做好了。每一种原料也都是新鲜的，通常来自法国的供应商朋友。（后来，他们几乎所有东西都从巴黎的朗格斯市场订购。）
As the business expanded, first with the Waterside Inn, then with two smaller restaurants in London, then with more down-market eateries that plain folk could almost afford, the same philosophy was applied to all of them, and a host of eager young British chefs were trained, some with Roux Scholarships, to run them. All this made Michel enormously proud, yet it was hardly what he had expected. He had wavered about being a chef. With his looks and his deep voice—in his kitchen, he never needed a microphone—he might have made an opera singer. But love of food ran deep.
随着商业扩张，首先是开了Waterside Inn餐厅，然后是在伦敦开的两家小一些的餐厅，然后开了多家一般人可以负担得起的低档餐厅，所有的餐厅都应用了同样的理念。他们也培训了许多年轻的英国厨师来经营这些餐厅，有些厨师还获得了卢克斯奖学金。所有这些都让米歇尔非常自豪，但是这并不是他之前预料的情况。米歇尔曾犹疑过要不要做厨师。凭借他的这般长相和低沉的声音-在厨房里，他从来都不需要麦克风-他可能成为一个歌剧演唱家。但是他对食物的爱是非常深的。
Growing up as the son of a charcutier, he had learned whether it was Monday or Tuesday from the smell of boudin or andouillettes on the stairs; and his earliest memory was of beating up egg yolks which, as if by magic, thickened in the hot stock into sauce for his mother's blanquette of veal. To run just one restaurant with Albert would have been good enough. And it was hard work: so hard that he was hardly ever at home, and his first wife divorced him. Though he knew almost no English, he still had to take his turn at front-of-house while Albert was manning the stove.

米歇尔·鲁克斯是食品商的儿子，他很早就能在楼梯上通过闻猪肉香肠或粗粒香肠的味道来判断当天是周一还是周二。他最早的记忆就是打蛋黄，就像魔法一样，鸡蛋在热高汤里变稠，熬成他母亲做的小牛肉的酱汁。和艾伯特一起经营一家餐厅就足够了。并且非常辛苦，以至于他很少回家，而且他的第一任妻子和他离婚了。尽管米歇尔几乎不会讲英文，他仍然得轮流待在前台，彼时艾伯特就会掌管后厨。
They cooked and played host in alternate weeks, knowing well that if they tried to share service there might be blood. Both of them came up with ideas, but his strength lay in details. Precision and patience were a pastrycook's skills. It mattered to him, for instance, that commis waiters should not talk to the customers and that diners should wear ties (he almost refused entry to the Rolling Stones when they turned up without them). Every ingredient had its right place, too, and as each arrived he would taste it, unseasoned, to judge exactly where it might sit within a dish.
他们知道，俩人得轮流负责前台和后厨，在一块服务的话可能会有流血事件发生。他们两人都会有点子，但他的优势在于细节。精确和耐心是面点师的技能。例如，对米歇尔来说，重要的是，服务员不能和顾客说话，而且用餐者应该打领带(滚石乐队不戴领带入场时，他几乎拒绝让他们入场)。而且每个原料都得各得其所，在加调料之前，他会品尝每一种原料，以此判断它对之后做出菜肴的影响。
When he and Albert produced cookery books, spreading the revolution to ordinary British kitchens, he, being a perfectionist, wrote the words, just as on their cookery shows he was the suave and particular main presenter. And in 1986 it made sense to split their interests, so that while his brother went bustling after new business he departed for Bray, to run the whitewashed former pub on the Thames they had opened a decade before.
鲁克斯和阿尔伯特出版烹饪书，将革命传播到普通的英国厨房。烹饪书的文字是完美主义者鲁克斯完成的，就像他们上烹饪节目时，他会是那个温文尔雅的主讲人。所以他们分开是情理之中的事情，1986年，在他的兄弟忙于新生意的时候，他离开去了布雷，在泰晤士河边经营他们十年前开的那家粉刷过的旧酒吧。

来源：经济学人