Red Carpet Radicals: The Met Gala Really Wanted to Make a Statement
Met Gala回归：红毯“激进派”的时尚宣言

On the second Monday in September, upper Fifth Avenue lit up with a blitz of flashbulbs not seen in over two years.

9月的第二个周一，上东区的第五大道上闪烁着两年多未见的闪光灯。

The Met Gala — like Broadway, like New York Fashion Week, like the U.S. Open — had returned, and with it the extreme pageantry that it inspires as guests and the designers who dress them vie to see who can create the most viral look according to theme.

和百老汇、纽约时装周、美国公开赛一样，Met Gala又回来了，随之而来的一场时装盛宴，客人们和为他们着装的设计师们争相展示，看谁能根据主题创造出最火爆的造型。

The dress code this year was “American Independence.” (It was linked to the Costume Institute exhibition it celebrated, “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.”) What exactly that means is a question George and Martha Washington probably never had to contemplate (even Dolley Madison, the resident founding fashionista, likely didn’t ask), but the gala provided a variety of answers: some obvious, some more pointed, all plumbing the mythology of the country — historical, pop cultural, and just plain fantastical.

今年的着装主题是“美国独立”。（这与大都会博物馆服装学院[Costume Institute]举办的展览《在美国：时尚词典》[In America: A Lexicon of Fashion]相关联。）乔治和玛莎·华盛顿(George and Martha Washington)可能从来不需要考虑它究竟意味着什么（即使是开天辟地的时尚达人多莉·麦迪逊[Dolley Madison]可能也没问过这个问题），但这个晚宴提供了各种各样的答案：有些浅显易懂，有些则比较尖锐，所有这些都与这个国家的神话有关——历史，流行文化，以及纯粹的幻想。

Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York, for example, wore her politics on her sleeve — or rather, her back — in a white mermaid dress by Aurora James, founder of Brother Vellies and the 15 Percent Pledge, with the message “Tax the Rich,” scrawled in bright red letters, and a bag to match.

例如，纽约州的众议员亚历山大·奥卡西奥-科尔特斯(Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez)将她的政治宣言穿在了身上——由维利兄弟(Brother Vellies)和百分之十五承诺(15 Percent Pledge)的创始人奥罗拉·詹姆斯(Aurora James)设计的白色美人鱼连衣裙，上面用鲜红色的字母潦草地写着“对富人征税”，还有一个与之搭配的手包。

Given that the gala is a cornucopia of capitalist values, full of the rich and famous, that’s independent thinking for you.

鉴于这个晚宴就像一个资本主义价值观的盛宴，全是富人和名人，不知道你们怎么想。

Along with Representative Carolyn Maloney, in a suffragist purple, white and gold gown and cape by Antonios Couture calling for “Equal Rights for Women” and an ERA clutch, Ms. Ocasio-Cortez took the fashion statement idea to a whole new level.

议员卡罗琳·马洛尼(Carolyn Maloney)身着安东尼奥斯时装(Antonios Couture)设计的呼吁“女性平等权利”的长裙和斗篷，使用了代表女权主义的紫色、白色和金色，配ERA手包，与奥卡西奥-科尔特斯一起将时尚宣言的意义提升到一个全新的水平。

There was a sense, before the gala, that after 2019’s “Camp” theme, which had Billy Porter on a litter borne by six shirtless men and Katy Perry as a chandelier, the costuming for the Costume Institute had gone about as far as it could go, and perhaps the time away had been an opportunity for a reset. Maybe attendees would just honor the occasion by wearing a nicely elegant gown by an American brand, rather than a look that probably flirted with national cliché. Some — like the event’s honorary chairman, Anna Wintour, in floral Oscar de la Renta — did. But as the evening progressed, it became increasingly clear they were in the minority. Besides, many couldn’t, even if they wanted to, because they were the guests of European brands and thus had to also model their clothes. Meaning they had to engage with the theme in more overt ways.

在这次晚宴前，似乎有一种感觉，即在2019年的“坎普”(Camp)主题之后，服装学院的礼服创意已经用尽。在那次主题中，比利·波特(Billy Porter)坐在六名赤膊男子抬着的轿子上，凯蒂·佩里(Katy Perry)扮成水晶吊灯，也许这个长久的时间间隔是重新启动的机会。也许客人只是穿着一件美国品牌的优雅礼服来庆祝这一场合，而不是某种可能带有民族风情的俗套造型。有些人——比如这一活动的名誉主席安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)就做到了，她穿着奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)的花卉礼服。但随着晚宴的进行，越来越明显的是他们是少数。此外，许多人即使想穿美国品牌也做不到，因为他们是欧洲品牌请来的代言，因此也不得不为它们的衣服做模特。这意味着他们必须以更显眼的方式参与主题。

The West was worn. Leon Bridges sported a blue suede cowboy jacket from Bode, while Jennifer Lopez’s plunging beaded Ralph Lauren gown, faux fur bolero and leather hat had a whiff of the million-acre ranch, and Kim Petras’s Collina Strada came complete with … a horse head. So was the melting pot, thanks to the co-host Naomi Osaka, in a Louis Vuitton gown that referenced her Haitian and Japanese roots.

有的穿着美国西部风情。莱昂·布里奇斯(Leon Bridges)身着Bode的蓝色流苏牛仔夹克，而珍妮弗·洛佩兹(Jennifer Lopez)穿着深V珠饰拉尔夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)礼服、人造毛皮披肩和皮帽散发着百万英亩牧场的气息，而金·佩特拉(Kim Petras)的科琳娜·斯特拉达(Collina Strada)礼服则配了一个……马头。主持人之一大坂直美(Naomi Osaka)的路易威登(Louis Vuitton)礼服带来的种族大熔炉也是，她的裙装暗示了她的海地和日本血统。

There was denim, obviously, as modeled by Ben Platt, David Byrne and Lupita Nyong’o in a molded Versace jean bustier.

毫无疑问，还有牛仔布，穿着它的有本·普拉特(Ben Platt)和大卫·伯恩(David Byrne)，还有穿着范思哲(Versace)牛仔胸衣的露皮塔·尼永奥(Lupita Nyong'o)。

Also a lot of red, white, and blue, sometimes all in one outfit, such as Megan Rapinoe’s Sergio Hudson pantsuit (in what turned into one of the trends of the night, her bag also had a message: “In Gay We Trust); sometimes in a designer’s matching guests, such as Stella McCartney’s troika of Ella Emhoff in red trousers and top, Julia Garner in a white sheer gown and Nia Dennis in a blue bodysuit.

还有很多红色、白色和蓝色，有时全在一套衣服里呈现，比如梅根·拉皮诺(Megan Rapinoe)的塞尔吉奥·哈德森(Sergio Hudson)长裤套装（成为当晚的热搜之一，她的包上还有一条信息：“In Gay We Trust”[我们信仰基友]）；有时会出现在设计师的嘉宾组合中，例如史黛拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)的三人组：埃拉·恩霍夫(Ella Emhoff)穿着红色裤子和上衣，朱莉娅·加纳(Julia Garner)穿着白色透视礼服，尼亚·丹尼斯(Nia Dennis)穿着蓝色连衣裤。

Or maybe it was a superhero suit? That’s how Serena Williams said she thought about her silver Gucci number, worn under a gigantic feathered cape — like a couture caped crusader.

或者是超级英雄套装？塞雷娜·威廉姆斯(Serena Williams)说她就是这样想到了自己的银色古驰(Gucci)系列，披在巨大的羽毛披风下——就像一名穿着高级定制时装斗篷的十字军战士。

Likewise caped and crusading: Lil Nas X, who shed his regal Versace outerwear to reveal a gleaming gold C-3PO suit, which he then jettisoned to expose a crystal-beaded bodysuit — an LGBTQ+ parable in clothes about the power of revealing your true self. It echoed Dan Levy’s billowing Loewe outfit, based on a work by the late American artist and activist David Wojnarowicz featuring an appliqué of two men kissing on the front, framed by lapping water and a map of the world.

同样披着斗篷的十字军还有：利尔·纳斯·X(Lil Nas X)，他脱掉了华丽的范思哲外套，露出了一件闪闪发光的金色C-3PO套装，然后他又扔掉了它，露出了一件镶满水晶的连衣裤——服装中的LGBTQ+比喻，讲述了揭示真实自我的力量。它呼应了丹·利维(Dan Levy)的罗意威(Loewe)礼服犹如翻腾的波浪，该礼服基于已故美国艺术家和活动家大卫·沃伊纳罗维奇(David Wojnarowicz)的作品，衣服正面饰有两个男人亲吻的印花，周围环绕着海水和世界地图。

The sartorial metaphors didn’t end there.

用服饰做的比喻并没有就此结束。

Ciara played her part in a lime green sequined Dundas football jersey gown with her husband Russell Wilson’s Seattle Seahawks number on the front and his Super Bowl ring on her finger. Amanda Gorman, also a co-host, came as an interpretation of the Statue of Liberty, thanks to a sparkling deep blue Vera Wang gown illuminated by more than 3,000 crystals, carrying a book clutch with the title “Give US Your Tired,” a nod to the Emma Lazarus poem at the statue’s base. Homages to other statuesque women like Barbie and Marilyn Monroe combined with a touch of Disney’s “Cinderella in the gigantic nude Oscar de la Renta ball gown of the co-host Billie Eilish.

席亚拉(Ciara)身着柠檬绿色亮片做成的登打士(Dundas)橄榄球衣礼服，正面饰有她丈夫拉塞尔·威尔逊(Russell Wilson)在西雅图海鹰队的号码，手指上戴着他的超级碗戒指。同为主持人的阿曼达·戈尔曼(Amanda Gorman)演绎了自由女神像，因为她穿着一件由3000多颗闪耀水晶装饰的深蓝色Vera Wang礼服，手拿一个书形手包，上面写着“将你疲累的人民交给我们”(Give US Your Tired)——致敬雕像底部的艾玛·拉撒路(Emma Lazarus)的诗。还有人向其他具有象征性的女性致敬，例如芭比娃娃和玛丽莲梦露结合迪斯尼的“灰姑娘”，就像主持人之一比莉·艾利什(Billie Eilish)的巨大裸色奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)舞会礼服那样。

Even the humble canvas Converse All Stars had a moment courtesy of the co-host Timothée Chalamet, in almost all white with an edge of black via a Haider Ackermann jacket and Rick Owens shirt, meant to pay homage to his kicks. ”)

即使是不起眼的帆布匡威全明星(Converse All Stars)，也得到了联合主持人蒂莫西·查拉梅(Timothée Chalamet)的片刻礼遇，他的几乎全白配黑边的帆布鞋搭配的是海德尔·阿克曼(Haider Ackermann)的夹克和里克·欧文斯(Rick Owens)的衬衫，旨在向他的鞋致敬。

But there was also the looming look of doom. Fair enough; it’s part of the story of this country, too: Hunter Schaffer’s bulging, zombie-white contact lenses or Kim Kardashian’s face-obscuring Balenciaga body stocking, gloves and dress with train, turning her into a shadow of herself. Evan Mock wore archival Thom Browne shorts with a black patent leather mask on his head, suggesting fetish and bondage. Erykah Badu also had a Thom Browne bubble obscuring her features — though as far as unsettling accessories go, Frank Ocean, in Prada, birthed the best memes with a robotic green baby doll that matched his bright green hair.

但也有人展示迫在眉睫的末日。这也说得通：这也是这个国家叙事的一部分：亨特·谢弗(Hunter Schaffer)鼓起的僵尸白色隐形眼镜或金·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)用来把脸遮住的巴黎世家(Balenciaga)紧身袜、手套和带长摆的连衣裙，将她变成了自己的影子。埃文·莫克(Evan Mock)穿着收藏级的汤姆·布朗(Thom Browne)短裤，头上戴着黑色漆皮面具，暗示着恋物癖和绑缚。艾丽卡·巴杜(Erykah Badu)也用一件汤姆·布朗(Thom Browne)外衣遮住了她的身材——不过在令人不安的配饰这方面，诞生了最佳米姆的还是穿普拉达的弗兰克·奥申(Frank Ocean)，他用一个绿色机器人婴儿娃娃搭配他亮绿色的头发。

Not a bad reminder, really, that this is a country full of people from elsewhere, and many of us were once aliens in the land.

真的，这很好的提醒了我们，这是一个充满来自其他地方的人的国家，我们中的许多人曾经是这片土地上的外来人。

来源：好英语网